Day 5

Friday 28th November 2008, Day 5



I have only been on the road for 4 days, but have already had enough muesli, bananas, nuts, dried fruits and Gatorade/Powerade to last me a lifetime, so was delighted to start day 5 with a Full English breakfast and a proper cup of tea - mmm, beautiful (thanks to Alf's wife for that!)

It is sad to say goodbye to the Tintaldra Hotel, but time is pressing - I am concerned about the next couple of days as I have the 'Corryong to Thredbo' section to contend with and the dreaded ride up to "Dead Horse Gap" (the highest sealed road in Australia?) - this will involve a total ascent of 2,700metres - gulp!

I cycle the 25kms into Corryong (into the wind again) where I am due to meet up with Ad's brother-in-law, Mark, and his pal, Phil. They are coming up for a couple of days to escape from the city. Corryong is famous for Jack Riley, aka 'The Man from Snowy River' and the town has a pleasant laid back community feel, like most of the other towns I have passed through in Victoria:-



Whilst I wait for Mark and Phil, I decide to pay a visit to the "world famous" Snowy River Museum, where there is apparently a "fascinating collection of memorabilia" (according to the guy in the tourist information office). I wander round but am inclined to disagree on both accounts - however, the chap collecting the $5 entrance fees on the door has a small portable TV and he is flicking between the Australian Masters golf and the Australia/New Zealand cricket Test match... so it is not a wasted trip!

With no sign of Mark and Phil by 2.30pm I head off towards Kanchoban (25kms) and the entrance to the Kosciuscko National Park. The wind is with me now and I fly along at double the speed I have managed over the last 3 days. I cross the Murray River and enter New South Wales - the weather turns and it starts raining. As I cycle along, Mark and Phil pull up alongside in their car.

I think it would be fair to say that they are a little under-prepared (sorry fellas!). Yes, they do have 2 bikes, but 1 is a road bike with gearing that even Lance Armstrong would struggle to get up any sort of mild incline with. Between them, they have only 1 helmet (it is law to wear a helmet here in Australia), 1 waterbottle, no rucksacks/bags, 1 rear bikelight, 1 showerproof top, no tent, no sleeping bags and 1 meat pie. I have warned them that the route is proably the hilliest in Australia, rises to a height of over 1600m, is prone to swings in the weather, and is completely devoid of anywhere to buy food or drinks... and as for a hotel, you can forget it!!

Undeterred, the 3 of us set off from Kanchoban and head the 30kms to our stop for the night - Geehi campsite, where there is a rumour that there may be a hut there we can sleep in??

The Melbourne lads set off at a fair pace:-



...but after approximately 0.5km, the road steepens visciously. Phil cycles off into the distance on his mountain bike (with no helmet, no water, no food, no waterproofs and no lights) - he will not be seen again for 3hrs. Mark and I spend 2.5hours cycling along:-



...ok, so we walk a lot of it. This is one tough climb!

As we 'cycle' past the entrance to the park, my bike computer shows a total distance so far of 600km - I feel a slight wave of emotion and I raise a faint smile as I realise this is the half-way point in my journey!



After 12kms, with light fading and the steepness of the road showing no sign of letting up, Mark takes the executive decsion to turn round and cycle back to pick up his car. He will meet us at Geehi campsite.

Another 2kms later, the road levels off and there follows an exhilerating fast 10km descent through beautiful woodland forest of eucalyptus and gum trees. To the right, we are above the cloud level:-



...and to the left the mountains light up with the flat, fading evening light:-



I arrive at Geehi campsite as night falls. Phil has been there for 20 minutes. Since I last saw him, I have drunk over 2 litres of water, eaten half a pack of super-sour-snakes and my legs are killing me. Phil has drunk nothing, eaten nothing, and feels fine??? Prior to today, I had never met Phil before. It's his 1st time on a bike for over 3 years. I decide there is either something not right about him or he is superhuman!

Mark arrives 40 minutes later, with 3 steak sandwiches, 3 portions of wedges and a slab of beers - good work fella!

Alas, there is no camping hut at Geehi. It is a wonderful spot, right next to the river and is peaceful, calm and tranquil. The guys contemplate sleeping in the car, but decide to drive back to Kanchoban to the hotel... city-boy lightweights! I set up camp next to the river and am in my sleeping bag by 10pm. I can't settle though - my mind is fast-forwarding to what lies ahead and I am concerned about the next day's ride over Dead Horse Gap and onto Thredbo. The map suggests it will be only about 38kms but it's a long, long climb and with the weather being particularly unsettled at the moment, it could be an interesting day...

START:- Tintaldra, 9.30am
FINISH:- Geehi campsite, 8.15pm
DISTANCE:- 81.59 km
AVERAGE SPEED:- 14.0 km/h
MAXIMUM SPEED:- 75.8 km/h
TIME:- 5hrs 49mins 39s

TOTAL DISTANCE:- 631.48 kms
TOTAL TIME:- 37hrs 40mins 51s

Day 3 & 4

Wednesday November 26th, Day

The alarm wakes me at 5.50am - uhh...

I reluctantly get out of bed and my body feels like it is riddled with rheumatoid arthritis. Everything hurts as I wander through for breakfast with Chris, who is all ready and raring to go!! We leave at 7.15am and head the 45kms to Beechworth - "There's a bit of a hill, but it's nothing!", Chris tells me as we cycle back into Wangaratta and up to Beechworth. It is another beautiful morning, and the countryside is once again fantastic! The 'hill' upto Beechworth is an absolute b*gger. My bike+pannier bags weigh so much that any sort of resistance and I struggle. So hills, headwinds, road surfaces made up of knobbly tarmac and its a battle. All 3 are present this morning, coupled with stifling heat.

Eventually we arrive into Beechworth, a lovely little town perched up in the hills. Famous for its gold in the 19th century and its Chinese community of gold miners, it is also house the local courtrooms, where none other than old Ned Kelly himself appeared several times. More importantly though, it has possibly the best bakery I have EVER been to! Chris and I have a veg pasty and a coffee, before Chris says his goodbyes and cycles back to Wangaratta.



I am extremely grateful for his time and energy both on email in the past month and his hospitality these last couple of days.

I now have 2 options, head onto Hume Weir (65kms) - my destination for tonight's camp, or chill out here for a little while. I decide upon the latter and end up spending a whole 6 hours finally relaxing!! I get a chance to read the papers for the 1st time, but a little disappointed in the weather section:-



Wandering around town, I visit the Burke museum and the old courtrooms, both very interesting, before stumbling upon the bicycle shop, which also doubles up as the "Saw shop". I imagine the saws are for all those people who decide to hire a bike, ride 10 kms out of town (downhill in every direction) and then struggle to cycle back uphill, in the 30 degrees heat, on the knobbly roads... hence upon their eventual return they then need a saw to hack through the wrists to finish themselves off! I may be wrong?... I pop in and purchase a cycle top as I have worn the same base-layer top for 3 days... niiiiice! Wayne, the owner, is a nice guy, likes what I'm doing and gives me $10 to the Claire House fund - good on yer! (as everyone says here).

A quick 'Ned Kelly' pie at 4.30pm and I'm on the road again for the remaining 65kms, all into the breeze, passing through 400kms en route:-



and through dusk:-



...before eventually arriving at Hume Weir at 10pm. The last 90mins are in the pitch black and seem to be in the middle of nowhere. Lighting thunderstorms are visible to the east and the south but I escape. I cook noodles at 11pm, leave them for 2 minutes to finish putting up the tent, only to find 2 possums exploring the contents of the pan. I have no other food, so eat them anyway. Hope they weren't rabid possums?

START: Chris's house, Wangaratta, 7.16am
FINISH: Hume Weir, 10.00pm
DISTANCE:- 111.86 kms
AVERAGE SPEED:- 16.3 km/h
MAXIMUM SPEED:- 61.9 km/h
CYCLING TIME:- 6hrs 49mins 44s

OVERALL DISTANCE:- 426.97 km
OVERALL TIME:- 24hrs 27mins 20s


DAY 4

Another long slog today, kicking off with 98 kms from Hume Weir to Walwa. There are no towns between these 2 places, so I carry lots of water and ration myself to 1 gulp every 2kms. It is another hot, sunny day and the breeze is straight into again! I ride along the undulating road alongside the Murray river, which marks the boundary between Victoria to the south (where I am riding) and New South Wales to the north:-



I stop at 55kms for lunch and collapse into the grass at the side of the road. I feel a short sharp pain in my R calf and realise I have been bitten by something. Agghhh, snakebike??? hmm, no tell tale "double puncture marks", and I'm in the middle of nowhere so there is not much I can do about it anyway. As it happens I am still here now, so I assume it must have been an ant or something!

After 75kms, the sky is changing quicklie from sunny to very dark:-



...and I get caught in an electric thunderstorm for the next 90 minutes. I fear for my life and daren't stop pedalling in case I get hit. I think I read somewhere that the rubber tyres protect you as long as you don't touch the floor??? Anyway, I get soaked, but it is quite refreshing, and for the 2nd time today I 'escape' death!!

I arrive at Walwa, refuel for an hour, and get lots of advice from a couple of guys there on how to deal with the Australian wildlife. "Don't go upsetting a kangaroo, otherwise it'll beat the s*** out of ya"... "if you get bitten by a black, you'll be right, but if it's a brown, then you need to get to the hospital otherwise you'll be dead in 2hrs".... "you're heading upto Thredbo?? on a bike?? that's 70kms of 2nd gear... and that's in the bloody car!". Despite this, I am glad of the conversation, it's the 1st I've had all day:-



I then head another 25kms south to Tintaldra, a small town with a population of 25 and 1 pub! I decide to stop here for the night. Alf, the owner (an ex-Yorkshire man who is delighted to hear my surname!) tells me it's $40 for the night or $10 if I take a caravan. I opt for the the latter (4 quid!) and end up having several 'pots' of Carlton beer and a fanastic steak with the locals (Alf, Al, Greg and Steve). Their business is growing grains/grasses and servicing the machines that they use. I struggle to for the 1st 30 mins with accents and Combine Harvester terminology - but end up having a great night. This is one of the proper Australian experiences that I had hoped for, and despite copping a load of flack for being a Pommie, we have a good laugh, (albeit mainly at my expense!), cheers fellas:-



Another good day!

START:- Hume Weir, 9.30am
FINISH:- Tintaldra, 7.20pm
DISTANCE:- 122.91 kms
AVERAGE SPEED:- 16.6 km/h
MAXIMUM SPEED:- 56.8 km/h
CYCLING TIME:- 7hrs 23mins 52s

TOTAL DISTANCE:- 549.88kms
TOTAL TIME:- 31hrs 51mins 12s

Melbourne to Sydney! - day 1 & 2

Monday 24th November 2008, DAY 1:-

G'day everybody,

Well, after a long-time waiting, the big day has arrived and at 7.24am I finally set off from Ad's house, just south of Melbourne city, to begin my 1200km 'adventure'!

(The bike I am using is not the one pictured the other day! I have hired a proper one for the trip... and yes, if you click on the photo to expand it, I know, I know - there is a bike stand and a ding-a-ling bell! - Cookie, you'd be proud...)

So, cycled the 5kms into Melbourne City Centre and hopped onto the 7.56am train for the 1hr trip to take me to Lilydale, in the outer suburbs, which is the official start for the Melbourne to Sydney 1200km bike ride...

However, I couldn't relax on the train - Whilst I am riding Melbourne to Sydney, this route is from the NE suburbs of Melbourne to the S suberbs of Sydney... and I have told people I am riding from Ad's in southern Melbourne to Tim's in northern Sydney. After 40mins on the train, I can't take the potential failure anymore - I hop off, cross the track and grab the next train back to Melbourne. Great start!

At 9.20am I set off properly from Flinder's St station in the centre of town. If I'm going to this, it's got to be done properly! (Pic opposite Flinder's St station with MCG in the background):-



The 1st 30kms is a pleasant trip next to the Yarra river and is on great cyclepaths. I then get lost for about 10kms before ending up on the Maroondah highway and 20kms on a 3-lane highway, passing 20kms of fast food joints - McDonalds, KFC, Subway, Hungry Jacks, Fasta Pasta... (repeat x10)... before arriving at Lilydale train station. 60kms of suburbia and I'm not in great spirits. Its grey, not warm, and drizzling - I feel like I'm in Britain!

I switch the radio on for the 1st time, to help focus the mind on something else. The 1st song is Cat Stevens, and the 1st lyrics I hear are "Find a girl, settle down, if you want - take it easy..." Hmm? 2 songs later and it's Neil Diamond with "Solitary Man". The rain increases and I wonder what the hell I am doing here??

But, 10kms further on, things take a turn for the better. I am well out of the city now and into the lush Yarra Valley countryside and I stumble upon "Domain Chandon":-



A vineyard, with FREE wine tasting - yeeha!

Apparently the cooler climate here is perfect for the Chardonnay grapes. It would be rude not to at least sample what the area has to offer - all in the name of research of course:-



... and apparently the Pinot Noir is also very good:-



I leave with spirits lifted and continue on through beautiful Healesville, up the Black Spur (steep ascent for 15kms - took over 2hrs), passing through lush rainforest (not what I imagined when arranging trip, was thinking more dry, arid, emptiness...), eventually clocking up 100kms:-



I leave the rain-forest as the sun emerges at 5.15pm - I feel warm for the 1st time today. This is the highest point (literally and metaphorically) of the day and I continue for another 50kms through beatiful countryside in the fading sun:-



...before arriving in sleepy Alexandra at 7.40pm. Life is good again and I know I have made the right choice in coming.

At the campsite, the guy in charge is asleep. I wake him up and he seems p**sed off. I ask for a camping pitch and he sneers at me with disdain. He could charge me what he likes, I'm in the middle of nowhere, need a hot shower, and there are no other options... he snorts out "Five bucks"... and I can't believe my luck (2 quid).

A guy wanders over as I pitch my tent in the dark and he hands me a beer. He then proceeds to tell me his life story and how he's lived here for 6 months since his marriage break-up... time to head up to the pub!

...where a motley crew of semi-toothless misfits are all bevvied. Every other word is the 'f' word and I feel my IQ draining away by the second. Alexandra is a beautiful spot, but I'm looking forward to heading off at sunrise in the morning!

START: Ad's House, Middle Park, Melbourne, 7.24am
END: Alexandra, 7.40pm
TOTAL DISTANCE: 153.65 kms
AVERAGE SPEED: 17.8 km/h
MAXIMUM SPEED: 66.2 km/h
CYCLING TIME: 8hrs 37mins 19s


Tuesday 25th November 2008, Day 2:-

Up at 5.40am and away at 7am. Gorgeous day, sun, no clouds but a slight headwind. The road is winding and undulating and the scenery interesting. I like the fact that Australian names are straight to the point. I climb up "Big Hill". It is an accurate description!

I pass the 200km point (total distance):-



After 60kms of lovely cycling, I hit the Hume Highway - Australia's equivalent of the M6 (there are no other cyclists but I am certain bikes are allowed). I am due to to meet up with Chris Rogers, a man I met on the internet! (oo-er) in Benalla, 50kms up the Hume Highway. I am late and pedal as hard as I can, into a 10-20km headwind all the way. The road is straight and visible to the horizon. The scenery is unchanging and I have to keep checking the road markings in the middle of the road to confirm I am moving!

I meet Chris at 3.30pm. I have cycled 110kms already today and my legs are wrecked. Chris is in charge of many Audax bike rides in Victoria (long distance rides). He is a nice bloke and I instantly warm to him and his passion for cycling!

We leave Benalla to head to his house in Wangaratta, 40kms away. Despite Chris telling me that he is Victoria's slowest rider, he takes off at a steady pace, ouch and I struggle to keep up. Fortunately Chris gets a puncture, so I carry on without him at a much more sedate pace but within 30 minutes he has caught me up again!

We pass through Glenrowan, scene of Ned Kelly's last stand and if the rest of this trip fails, no problem, as I have got one of the things I set out to achieve - a picture with big Ned!:-



We arrive in Wangaratta - I am knackered... Chris then breaks the news that his house is 10kms to the North (tears form in corner of eyes). We eventually arrive at his place, a lovely pad out in the sticks. I spend the evening with Chris and his wife, Judith, eating a fantastic meal and engaging in good conversation with a few beers and a glass of wine before retiring to a wonderfully comfy double bed.

My 1st intenet relationship is a success!

START:- Alexandra, 7.01am
END:- Chris and Judith's house, 10kms north of Wangaratta
DISTANCE:- 161.44 kms
AVERAGE SPEED:- 17.9 km/h
MAXIMUM SPEED:- 77.7 km/h
CYCLING TIME:- 9hrs 0mins 17s

TOTAL DISTANCE:- 310.10kms
TOTAL TIME:- 17hrs 37mins 36s

G'day cobbers!

Sunday 23rd November, 6.00pm

G'day folks and welcome from Melbourne!

Been here for just over a week now. Got off to a poor start with all bicycle tools confiscated at Manchester airport - "I'm sorry sir, you're just not allowed to take a set of screwdrivers on as hand luggage" - doh!

.

The tub of Vaseline didn't make it either (petroleum based)

Sat next to a bald punk from Newcastle on the plane - good bloke. Used to have several 12" spikes as hairstyle, but as gels and hairsprays weren't strong enough last time round he'd used wallpaper paste instead?!?... fine until he needed to wash it out, and then couldn't - had to "snap them off" in the end, hence the now bald head, hehheh...

Anyway, I'm digressing - had a great week here in Melbourne. Fantastic catching up with Ad and getting to meet Jen for the 1st time. Stag-do kicked off 11 hours after arriving at Ad's with superb day at the races last Saturday and a great night out in Melbourne to follow:- (Ad with his dad and bro, Geoff and Jim)

Great week, including four'n twenty pie in the MCG:-

and trip down to Bell's Beach (of Point Break surfing fame):-

.

.

Ad and Jen's wedding yesterday went really well, despite interesting weather - rain, hail, strong winds, etc. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwdqjpehnjQ) but nothing could deter from a fabulous day (pics to follow).

Got bike sorted earlier in week:-

Was due to set off this afternoon, but feeling a little worse for wear today (too many profiteroles I think?), so will set off early tomorrow morning... hopefully!

.

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to the Claire House Fund - current total is nearly 1,400 pounds - just out of interest, if I don't complete ??? is it refunds all round?

Snow... in October?

Thurs 30th October

Set off from home with intention of making it to Porthmadog, some 85-90 miles away... hadn't budgetted for unseasonably early snowfall though!

Made it 59 miles to Bala, but with numb fingers, numb toes and pretty much numb everything else, took the executive decision to get the bus the last 30 miles. Asked someone in Bala what time the buses went to Porthmadog, to be told there is only 1...

...1 per week! and that goes on a Monday. Great, stuck in Bala - freezing cold, tired and it's snowing... plus it will be pitch black in 1 hour. Decide to hitch. 1st van passing stops and a chap called Terry (my new best friend) gives me a lift the full 30 miles to Porthmadog. His temperature gauge reads 0 degrees as we drive along...

I decide, here and now, that God definitely does exist as Terry drops me off outside 'Y Llong' (The Ship pub) in Porthmadog. A celebratory pint of 'Brains SA' is tempting but core temperature is low and I decide to cycle the remaining 3 miles to my final destination (the caravan) and then spend the next 3 hrs sat in front of fire recovering.

I return to 'Y Llong' the following evening for that pint of Brains - it tastes AMAZING!